Swinney Syrah (Formerly Shiraz) 2022

Exemplary, stylish and rather Old World, it’s medium to fullish in weight with genuine resemblance to quality St-Joseph. A musky, floral bouquet of cassis, blackberries, redcurrants and cedar/chocolate oak backed by suggestions of baked earth and licorice is lifted by eastern scents of five spice and cinnamon, plus a whiff of potpourri. There’s a hint of menthol as well. Long and layered, with a generous, gravelly palate, it’s dry and textural, with a lingering savoury finish. If you’re drinking it young, give it plenty of aeration first.