Sami-Odi - Little Wine #6 Syrah - 0

Fraser McKinley takes thinking and consideration to Olympic levels, in the most non-jock kind of way. Metered, thoughtful, precise and with a sense of calm and determination, McKinley farms his plots of the Hoffmann’s ‘Dallwitz’ vineyard from vines planted in 1996, 1995, 1994, 1960 and those planted somewhere-or-other prior to 1912. The varying parcels have been tended by hand by McKinley, nurtured in a way that has encouraged a gradual change across the entire vineyard. Farming is done without chemicals and set to lunar rhythms. Winemaking follows a similar non-interventionalist path, in as much as adding things or manipulation of the wine during fermentation, though of course this is a highly considered, crafted wine that takes on (in version #6), a blend of barrels from 2016 (47%), 2015 (44%), 2013 (5%) and 2012 (4%). Quite a remarkable wine, indeed. Strikingly good expression of shiraz (syrah) here. Has an old school bouquet that feels a bit yesteryear but has this smile-on-dial ripe fruit, cedary oak, pencil shavings, pepper and undergrowth pot pourri scent that anchors you into Barossa and the variety. The palate is concentrated, deeply flavoured, dark fruited and lavishly spiced. Indeed, it’ll tickle those seeking an abstract expression as it will the traditionalists. Etched with ribs of superb, feathery, graphite-ribbed, firm tannins it shows a brightness of acidity that slips the palate into a succulent chew through the long finish. It’s incredibly complex, if you’re able to sit back and admire the wine, but it compels you to drink with an urgency too. Mesmerising. Best yet. And that’s off a high base. Must do. 96 Points winefront.com.au