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Lithe and finely wrought red of intensity, depth, complexity, concentration but lift and drive. Huge perfume, malt, boot polish, dark berries, dried leaves, liquorice, brined black olive. It’s svelte but not without juiciness, all lip-smacking dark fruits, malty notes, autumnal characters like mushroom, woody spice and faint game meat – very savoury here. Tannins court gently then build, build, build and finish with a strong, fine but tense pucker. Magnificent wine. Serious, deep and perhaps the most elegant release yet. 97 Points, Mike Bennie, Winefront.com.au