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A highly idiosyncratic chardonnay that contorts the paradigm in the very best sense. Black volcanic soils over limestone. Stimulating, intriguing, resinous and extremely complex wine this. Polarizing perhaps for the mainstream drinker. Distinctly medium-bodied yet of incredible power across the palate. Aromas of washed cheese rind, ginger, dashi and pickled lime, suggestive of rock star chenin from the Loire. This wine is bound by a nervous cadence of phenolics and lip-smacking acidity. Jingle jangle. Wonders are surely in store for those who are patient. 95 Points Ned Goodwin MW, jamessuckling.com