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A savoury stamp this vintage, that decompresses the slight sweet-cherry accent into a minor component. Chinese five-spice, chinotto, wood smoke and a smatter of dried herbs form the core of flavours. But texture is key. Fine sandpaper tannins and the mouth-watering acidity leads everything to a decisive, slightly dry finish. An austere, compelling style. 95 Points Jane Faulkner, The Halliday Wine Companion