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Never in a million years would I have picked the vine age given the savouriness, detail and complexity in this wine. Fruit off four-year-old vines. Quite astonishing and yet, the proof is in the glass. Full of heady aromatics – all florals and wood spice with flavours of dark cherry, cherry compote and poached rhubarb. But it’s not at all fruity, as it also comes with a hint of charred radicchio and Italian bitter herbs. There’s a vivacity across the just medium-bodied palate, a little sinewy, yet savoury through and through; best of all, the shapely, fine tannins take charge as it finishes long and convincingly. Made from hand-picked fruit, whole-berries with 3% whole-bunches, fermented in Nico Velo Tulipe concrete vats, pressed off skins after a month and aged a year in mostly light toast François Frères barriques, 30% new. 95 Points Jane Faulkner, The Halliday Wine Companion