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This is a wine of whispered power, finely etched detail and sublimely supple texture. Black cherries and dried strawberries, a rippling seam of baking spices, a beguiling bass line of sweet earthiness. It’s the sinewy athleticism that really impresses here; the wine delivers plenty without ever getting paunchy. It’s alert, energetic and rolls across the palate with effortless momentum. This is not Joy Division, but Joy Multiplied. 96 Points Nick Ryan, The Australian