Birks Wendouree - Shiraz Mataro - 2017

A wine that grew in glass substantially with time open. A more savoury expression. Firm and leaner that previous releases, but built for rock-solid cellaring, let’s say. Something guttural in it too. Very Wendouree, also. It opens with that cornucopia of Aussie bushwalk scents of earth, trees, dried leaves, eucalyptus, with black cherry, lavender, brined black olive introduced late in the bouquet. Firm ribs of Italianate tannins tighten and give rails to more of the dark cherry flavours, alongside more brined black olive, dried green herbs. Texture is succulent, grippy from mid-palate to close; I love these tannins, and the finish is a swoosh of dark berry flavours, green-citrus acidity and strong, black bergamot tea. Power, edginess, savoury qualities, in a tightly wound wine. Impressive wine. 95+ Points Mike Bennie, The Wine Front