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Heady floral notes and suggestions of clove and cinnamon-like spices overlie a brooding bouquet whose aromas blackberries, blueberries, cassis and dark plums are tightly knit with fine-grained oak. Framed by firm, powdery tannin, it unfolds layers of searingly intense and slightly sour-edged, juicy plum and berry fruit backed by spicy, minty nuances and restrained oak. Very firm and astringent, but already very approachable, entirely natural and finely balanced. (19.3/97, drink 2024-2034+) Jeremy Oliver