Hickinbotham Clarendon The Revivalist Merlot 2019

Such a substantial Merlot, yet still the most mid-weight wine in the Hickinbotham range. 50% of the blend goes into a new large foudre and there is a certain coffeed graininess on palate and finish. Fleshes things out though. Nice texture and balance otherwise – plump, yet not overripe, with not unnatural acidity. Compared to the superstar Shiraz et al this is a step behind – and the oak is a presence. But the balance and poise and naturalness are just excellent. It’s not exactly varietal, but as a clever McLaren Vale red it’s pretty good.